Thursday, February 26, 2009
Gothic, dark, sophisticated: the world of Rick Owens,based in Paris, punk with a love for the golden age of Hollywood and the couture is rich in contrast.Glunge: glamorous and grunge.The 2009 fall collection respect the tipical Owens's style,laminated and modular dresser,washed and treated materials. Silohouette elongated and snappy, that reflect the environment metrpolitan with black, gray and almost gray.
The best in paris for 2009.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Monday, February 23, 2009
In what could very well be his last collection, given all the rumors about his exit, Martin Margiela went the retrospective route for his twentieth anniversary collection — it would be a very fitting end, no? All of the models were faceless — a nod to the designer's obsession with anonymity — and the house uniform, a white lab coat, came out in various forms, including during the final bow, when the entire staff emerged on the runway rather than Margiela himself. A hit parade of plastic bags, disco balls, bustier catsuits, Barbie clothes, and AIDS T-shirts led into the final look: a giant silk birthday cake, with two pairs of legs underneath. Was it Margiela's final look ever?
Friday, February 20, 2009
This shoot is not only an opportunity to see Rick in front of the lens, but also a chance for us to preview his first menswear collection before it hits the Paris runways on 23 January. In the true Baudelairean spirit of the dandy as the black prince of elegance, much of Rick's collection is jet-hued, inky, sootied and indeed any other term you can muster for layers of the dark stuff trussed around the form. Working with Panos Yiapanis, who also styles looks for Owen's haute Goth runway collections, Rick is his own best model, angular of face and limb in his equally arresting creations. My particular favourite is the windcheater, snapped above both mid-shot and with Panos astride, made special with a pointed hood and firm panes of fabric protruding from the spine like silken Stegosaurus plates. Part coven, part cretaceous age, this ostensible piece of casualwear is reminiscent of the formalised geometry of 1950s haute couture courtesy of M. Cristóbal Balenciaga. Black as easy-to-wear basic? This is hardly run-of-the-mill menswear.