Friday, February 20, 2009

Rick Owens:Hell Boy




This shoot is not only an opportunity to see Rick in front of the lens, but also a chance for us to preview his first menswear collection before it hits the Paris runways on 23 January. In the true Baudelairean spirit of the dandy as the black prince of elegance, much of Rick's collection is jet-hued, inky, sootied and indeed any other term you can muster for layers of the dark stuff trussed around the form. Working with Panos Yiapanis, who also styles looks for Owen's haute Goth runway collections, Rick is his own best model, angular of face and limb in his equally arresting creations. My particular favourite is the windcheater, snapped above both mid-shot and with Panos astride, made special with a pointed hood and firm panes of fabric protruding from the spine like silken Stegosaurus plates. Part coven, part cretaceous age, this ostensible piece of casualwear is reminiscent of the formalised geometry of 1950s haute couture courtesy of M. Cristóbal Balenciaga. Black as easy-to-wear basic? This is hardly run-of-the-mill menswear.

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